The Exciting world of Construction - To Abate or Not to Abate

Welcome to The Exciting World of Construction -

Lesson Seven.  

To Abate or not to Abate – that is the question:

There are mixed signals and differing opinions on whether to abate for asbestos or lead based on the quantity, type of material, etc. 

Let’s just say that the EPA is less ambiguous. The law wants you to test if renovating and abate if it’s present. It’s just that simple.

Great information here, which we won’t bore you by restating:  https://www.epa.gov/large-scale-residential-demolition/asbestos-containing-materials-acm-and-demolition#neshap

You should test for lead and asbestos any time you renovate, but especially if your building is 1980 or older. The law was passed in 1978, but, well, you know how it goes. The stuff was still on the shelves and a lot of it still got sold and installed.

What do asbestos and lead-based products look like? 

Unfortunately, just like the stuff without the hazard.

In our world of urgent calls and emergency response, I agree, it’s easy to overlook some steps. Mistakes happen. But best practice is to always test and always abate if necessary.

Some VERY HELPFUL things to remember

if any of your communities were

built in the 80’s or earlier:

• KEEP TESTING RECORDS PERMANENTLY ON FILE.

  
  

•  …‘Cause you’re going to be proactive and test the stucco, drywall, floor mastic if you have old vinyl flooring, and tar based roof membrane, etc for asbestos. (Talk to your Industrial Hygienist for specific targets in your communities)

  
  

• Test all painted surfaces for lead.

  
  

• Add a section to your Management Company’s work order that states if a community is “hot” or not. Send your vendors in armed with good information.

  
  

• REMEMBER: There is a 10-day MANDATORY wait time from the EPA when an abatement job is approved by the customer. Your contractor isn’t stalling! He CANNOT start until the 10-day wait is complete.

  
  

• My opinion – not necessarily the law: If you have a wet ceiling and a water leak is threatening collapse, cut holes in the WET portion of the drywall to prevent collapse. The “friable” or dry dusty stuff is what gets in your lungs. Wet drywall won’t make dust. When the collapse and mold entrapment danger is mitigated, then get the rest abated.

  

  
  

  Be safe! We have several great Industrial Hygienists and abatement companies on our team. We’d be happy to join your rapid response team!